How To Install Oak Stair Tread
installing stair treads is a great DIY project, all you need is a little knowledge!

Typically with a rough set of steps, the stair tread's nosing extends beyond the back of the step below it. This "nosing" must be cut off.

Easiest to use a power saw for most of the job and finish it with a hand saw when you get closer to each end.

The "stair tread nosing" will be recreated when the new step is put in place.

Check on local building code. Some areas have a maximum Nosing Extension of 1 1/4-1 1/2". We typically recommend 1-1 1/4" for the new treads. Less chance to trip on the lip.

Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood (in a wood species to match your tread) to face the sidewall of your steps (called a "stringer"). In some cases when installing stair treads they may butt directly up against the drywall (as in the picture) and you will choose to create a false stringer to make painting easier down the road. This is optional... you can eliminate this step and just fit the stair tread and riser up tightly to the drywall

In other situations when installing stair treads, the wood steps will have no exposed stringer at all and the only place you will need a 1/4" stringer capping is on the underside, as shown by the arrow here.

Out of the same material cut a rectangular piece of plywood to cover the back of the first step. Glue and nail into place, aligning it flush with the landing or the main floor nosing, if this is the top stair.

Trim your first step to size, installing stair tread, using stair tread adhesive to glue it into place. Most standard construction glues work great. I tend to use the PL400 or PL premium, just because they come in a caulking tube for easy application. Its a great adhesive and stair tread can be easily glued in place with limited mess.

Add a few finishing nails from the top to hold in place while glue dries....fill holes with an appropriate stick.

Work your way down the steps, first the upper stair tread and then the riser below until you reach the bottom floor. Notice that the crow bar is holding the plywood tight to the upper step, letting it gap on the bottom.

Add stair tread moldings as necessary.

1. Add lots of extra screws & glue to your rough construction stairs BEFORE you glue down the new hardwood stairs. Test for squeaks and adjust accordingly early on in the job.
2. Sanding stairs to 180-220 grit does not seem necessary when you receive your steps, but in staining applications will guarantee a more uniform colour application.
3. Install prefinished stair treads. Custom fit everything to size, then take it all off-site and prefinish stair treads before installation. Allow finish to harden for 48 hours before installation.
4. Be generous with the stair tread adhesive. Not only does it hold the stair in place, but it also works as a rubber gasket to prevent squeaks between the new and old wood steps.

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DIY INFORMATION

- Installing Stair Treads
- Resid. Building Code