Installing Engineered Wood Flooring:
Please read the previous page, on subfloor
preparation, before considering moving on to the installation
steps. This article presumes that your floor is flat and ready
to accept glue, and if concrete, is dry as discussed.
This section, is designed to answer the following:
- Do I need to acclimatize my flooring?
- What kind of glue should I use?
- Must I remove the baseboards, before installation?
- Where do I start laying my hardwood flooring?
- What is "rolling" the floor?
Step 2. Preparation for installing a glue
down wood floor
Do I need to bring the flooring into my
house ahead of time?
No, as with the "Classic" wood flooring, the Mirage Engineered
wood floor, is delivered to your door, at the right moisture
content, assuming of course your supplier has taken the necessary
humidity control steps in warehousing the flooring before
you take possession of the product ....... if this is true....
Don't Mess With It!
What kind of glue should I use?
Mirage recommends Bostic Best or BST Urethane... or Franklin
811 or 711 Plus. This does not mean that other products are
not suitable, but rather these are the companies, that Mirage
could get a secure warranty from the glue manufacturer to
say that: "Yes, these companies will warranty their product
to hold down to concrete or a plywood subfloor, a Mirage engineered
wood floor."
Most installers have their own product preferences, and will
probably use what they are used to. If you are doing it yourself....and
particularly, if you are at all doubtful about the moisture
content of your cement slab, we recommend using the Bostic
BEST. This glue will act as a vapor barrier as well as a glue.
It is more expensive, but researched and tested by the Mirage
people.
Must I remove baseboards, casing & doors?
You must remove all your baseboard, since it is rarely the
right height to allow the flooring to slide underneath..and
trim the base of the casings (door trim), to allow the new
floor to be installed underneath as well. Some individuals
will also trim the door jambs, for the same reason.
Now is the time to check your doors as well. Open them their
full turning circle, and make sure they have enough clearance
the entire way round... trim if necessary.
Step #2. Installing the wood floor.
Where do I start laying my flooring?
Unlike its 3/4" solid wood flooring cousin, this engineered
flooring can be installed with the tongue, OR the groove facing
you. That means that you can lay starting in any position
in the room, even in the middle, if you so chose. Just make
sure that the line you are using as your starting point, is
in fact, lined up with the most important wall, hall or visual
line of sight. That's what you are going to notice when all
is said and done.
Often it is started against a railing or stairs, so one does
not have to rip a strip of flooring to meet up correctly with
a nosing. (see the lower section on "special situations")
As with the Classic flooring, it should be installed in the
opposite direction to your floor joists.
On concrete, your flooring is usually installed parallel
to the longest wall.
How do I start?
Chalk a line on the floor 31"
from your guide wall. Why 31"?... This is the width of 12
boards of 2 9/16" floor plus 1/4" expansion space against
the wall. (Adjust for different floor widths.) This is the
last part of the floor you will install. Lay down a straight
edge (aluminum bar, piece of plywood, whatever as long as
it is straight) and nail, hilti or screw this into place along
the straight chalk line, chalked as above. The guide will
be on the 31" side of the line.
Spreading the Glue? Read directions
on the glue can and trowel out the appropriate amount of glue
for about a 20" strip. Use the correct V notched size trowel
as specified on the can. Note the "open time" of the glue,
adjusting this time for current humidity and temperature conditions.
You do not want to spread more glue than you can cover, within
that time period, or you may have trouble getting a good bond.
Gluing your fingers? Its going
to happen...... have appropriate solvent available!. Clean
fingers and floor immediately or you'll find it later and
not be able to get it off... you or the wood! Again be very
careful as you lay each piece of flooring into place that
you are not forcing glue into the tongue and grooves.
Installing the wood strips?
Using the 31" area to kneel in, line up the tongue of the
boards against the straight edge of the guide and press into
the adhesive, working from left to right. Inspect each piece
before installation, and discard or use in closets, any boards
that you are not happy with. Tap into place if necessary.
All the guidelines discussed for installing solid 3/4" flooring,
apply here as well. Don't line up two end splices at the same
place (should be 6" apart).
When you hit the end wall, and must trim a board, leave at
least 6" of wood to cut off, so this piece of flooring can
be used to start the next row at the other end. Presort for
colour and flaws according to your own likes.
With all brands of flooring, the manufacturer makes the
customer, the last inspector, so.... you the customer
must assure that any wood that is unsatisfactory is NOT installed
(ie.not up to the grade you purchased). I've dealt with lots
of manufacturers and none of them will cover installation
costs, if you dispute product quality AFTER the flooring has
been installed.
Do I need to roll the floor?
Most installers, and glue manufacturers recommend rolling
your floor, although there seems to be some debate as to how
heavy it should be. This is where I would go by the glue manufacturers
recommendations.
The rolling is to assure that the wood is in fact seated
firmly into the glue and squeeze out any blobs that you may
have missed on the way through.
How about the original 31"?
Once you have finished the main section, it is the time to
remove your original straight edge and install in the same
manner the remaining floor.
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